Friday, May 6th, 2011 at
10:37 am
I have a lawn that is about five years old that has been taken over by tall fescue. I would say about 45-50% is now fescue and it looks horrible with the bluegrass and rye mix that the builder put down. The problem is that the fescue is in patches all over and not in any one specific area. I’m wondering how cost prohibitive it might be and how time consuming the process of "starting over" would be. Or I’m wondering if there is a better way. All of the local lawn care companies will tell me is I need to fertilize, aerate, and overseed. I don’t think these are the right solutions as I’m not sure that addresses the problem. HELP!
Tuesday, April 26th, 2011 at
3:29 am
My family lives in a cul-de-sac and I feel as though our family is known to be the one that doesn’t take care of their lawn. The house across from us has a beautiful even green lawn. My house has mixtures of weeds, clovers, dandelions, purple flowers, white flowers, crabgrass, light green grass, dark green grass, yellow grass, potholes, thick, thin, dead…(i could keep going on). I’m the one that "takes care" of the lawn by mowing and trimming it every two weeks or so. My mom works all the time and my sister doesn’t do anything. I’m only 18 and not sure where to start. I applied some Scotch Turf Builder not too long ago after mowing my lawn for the first time this year. I’m hoping for the best.
I’ve done some research and found out there’s different types of grass. Like I said, I don’t know anything about grass and my lawn’s a jungle. What starting steps should I take to make my lawn better?
I live in Tennessee, so the seasons are pretty evened out. Winters are cold and summers are getting hotter. My front lawn is on a slight downward slope to the street and receives the most sun during the day. My back lawn is shaded by my house and looks better than my front lawn but does not compare to my neighbor’s lawn at all.
Please Help!!
Friday, April 8th, 2011 at
9:22 pm
right now there is a half inch to an inch copper discharge pipe that leads out the exterior wall and from there there is a garden hose that is attached to discharge taking the water away from the house.
My quesiton is i am having that copper line replaced with a 1.5 "in PVC pipe and cant understnad how that works as far as what do i attach to the end(i.e. garden hoe) so i can have the discharge water stay far away from the house.
Tuesday, April 5th, 2011 at
11:45 am
please take a look at this link.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaNoO2Vm39I&feature=pyv&ad=3877587465&kw=roof%20clean&gclid=CPO12oTH86cCFUmo4AodJSVdcg Don’t worry it is safe its from youtube it basically sums up what I am trying to do. I need to figure out this guys whole gas powered water pump setup. I don’t get how he hooks up the garden hose to the gas pump because all the gas powered pumps are like 2" or more which is way wider then a garden hose. He might have a adapter but no clue of where to get a adapter. Time stamp 1:08 shows a good close up of his set up.
Saturday, March 26th, 2011 at
1:03 pm
My sewer line clogs every 2-3 weeks. The clog is about 8 feet from the cleanout and I can clear the clog by running my garden hose to the clog and blasting it free. It’s always at the same spot and can’t be very deep. I suspect there is a coupling at the site since there is 3" pipe coming from the house. It may transition to 4" at the point of the clog. I have also had it rotorooted and there are some roots at the site. The tree was removed 6 months ago and the stump ground so I’m hoping the root problem will stop soon. Would it be reasonable to dig up the site myself and then have a plumber make the repair? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Getting real old going out and clearing the pipe, usually first thing in the morning but hate to have the entire sewer line replaced when the problem seems to be so localized. House about 30 years old.
Saturday, March 12th, 2011 at
9:26 am
My area is currently experiencing dry conditions, and there are watering restrictions in place. I always thought it was the opposite–that it’s better to raise the mowing height in dry conditions. But I was recently reading a lawn care website that recommended a mowing height of 2-3" with the following exception:
"Increasing mowing height also means that your lawn will soak up more moisture from the soil at a faster rate, which it then releases into the air. Moisture is used as a transport system that moves chemicals from one place to another inside the plant. In areas where drought conditions are being experienced, and water restrictions are in place, you might want to gradually lower your lawn mowing height to a slightly lower level."
So should I actually be cutting my lawn shorter (say, 2" or under) during dry conditions?
Thanks!
Saturday, February 19th, 2011 at
4:53 am
I need to install plumbing in my Northern Michigan (cold!) hunting cabin, but want to keep the pressure tank outside and underground if possible. Does anybody make a tank that can simply be buried below the frost line to prevent it from freezing in the winter time? My idea is to bury a tank (if possible) and have it run to a drain-back outdoor hydrant. Then, when I want water inside the cabin during the summer months, I can hook a garden hose from the hydrant to the cabin plumbing, and pressurize the system by turning the hydrant on. When winter comes, I will simply unhook the garden hose and drain the cabin pipes. Idiot-proof way of preventing frozen pipes. And, I will still have accessible water, it will just be outside at the drain-back hydrant. My only roadblock to this "ingeniously-redneck" idea is that I can not find a underground pressure tank. Anybody know if there is such a thing? If so, are they durable enough that they don’t need to be dug up and serviced every year?
Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 at
2:34 pm
Looking at getting a new lawn mower for my lawn care business. What is a good commercial lawn mower. Need about 32" or 33" mower that will last a long time?
That’s the biggest lawn mowers I can get right now to be able to fit on my trailer, with the rest of my equipment.
Tuesday, February 1st, 2011 at
10:32 pm
Have a 5000 gallon water tank with a 2" valve at the bottom. I have the valve reduced to a garden hose size however when I turn on the valve the water pressure just doesn’t seem to be high enough to run my houses water system for when the power goes out. Is there a different way I should be doing this? Certain kind of pump I should have? Trying to do this with the least amount of power possible.
Thursday, January 13th, 2011 at
3:11 am
I am installing an 18" raised rose garden and have a water source from a outside spigot 100 feet away’. I need a inexpensive way to water my roses. An underground soak-er hose? Ideas??