My family and I were weeding our lawn a few weeks ago, and we discovered about four or five holes in our lawn. The grass seemed to have shriveled up and died, leaving patches of dirt behind. I don’t know what’s the cause, but we have a feeling that our next door neighbor’s dog had been using our lawn as a toilet. We can’t jump to conclusions, though, and I don’t have any proof. Plus other factors might have cause the patches to form.
But more and more patches began to form, and our holes are getting wider and deeper. Our other neighbors don’t have the holes like the ones in our lawn, and we take very good care of our grass. We weed it whenever we see a foreign plant on in the grass, we water it when the grass gets dry, and we mow it when the grass is getting too tall. I don’t think we’re doing any wrong. Can anyone tell me what’s the problem?

I belong to a rugby club in Maryland. It’s currently March 14th and is getting warm enough for grass germination.

Our field is in awful shape. We attempt to reseed it every year. We do a great job watering it and mowing it, but by mid summer, it’s overtaken by weeds. When we start playing in fall, we tear up the field and are left with a mud-pit by November . . and the cycle repeats itself.

So . . .here’s our dilemma.
- We have games on the field for most of the next 6 weeks. If any one of these games occurs within 3 days of rain, the field will be muddy and we will destroy it (this is very likely).

- We know we need to start dealing with the weeds now ., . . but we are also eager to get seeding. Can we do both at the same time?

- An area lawn care specialist recommends aerating and seeding immediately . . .and then doing the crab-grass preventer/fertilizer treatment in late March. Does this make sense or does this person just want to get aeration money.

We have a very moist field. We have engineered drainage, but it’s just in a spot that is low-lying and retains water. My gut is telling me that if we aerate, all of that work will be undone in the first game as we squish every hole closed. I would think the first mow would close every one of those holes as well.

Many thanks for any advice.

I understand it is there to prevent backflow and it should spray when the water is shut off. The problem is that it sprays the whole time I have the water on. The garden hose is attached and when I water my lawn with a sprinkler or use the hose it’s spraying everywhere. I’ve even turned it on with nothing attached and water comes out of the spigot as well as the outflow holes on the breaker. HELP! I get soaked every time I turn on my sprinkler! And it sure seems like a waste of a lot of water!

We moved into a 40+ year old house and did some remodeling on our own. In the kitchen we installed a new countertop, sink and faucet. The faucet water pressure starts out OK and then dwindles to a trickle after some use. After a bunch of trial and error I figured out that the problem was in the valve of the faucet (forgive me if my terminology is off). It’s a 3-hole Moen faucet (one hole has the handle, one the faucet spout and the third is the sprayer).

Inside the faucet is a brass valve with three holes. One leads to the faucet, one connects to a hose for the sprayer and one is the inlet for the water from the handle. When I disconnect this valve, the water pressure from the inlet hose is very strong, so I know the problem is in the valve itself. I basically take the valve outside and spray it through with a garden hose sprayer. That seems to solve the problem as I then reassemble the faucet and water flows well. But, again, after some use (1-3 weeks?) it eventually slows to a trickle and I have to repeat the process.

I know that the underlying cause is our galvanized piping. We get a lot of the rusty granulated stuff in our aerators and I’m almost sure that is what is gumming up the valve.

OK, given all of that information, is there anything I can do to avoid taking the faucet apart every couple of weeks other than re-piping the whole house? Is there a better faucet/valve that would be more resistant to this clogging?

Any advice appreciated.

The last one I bought got holes in it from going around trees, etc. I need a good sturdy constructed one.

Thanks.

WHAT U NEED:
2 liter soda bottle ( I used Sprite ~ clear )
1/4" bit of drill to make holes on bottom of soda bottle
A big web of fiberfiller, ( "pillow stuffing" ) – polyester fibers work ) ( ticking )
cut 12" of the back of a garden hose ( the part that screws on you want)
Duck type
Optional: extra Hose Clamp
““““““““““““`
1. Take the Soda bottle
2. cut holes in the BOTTOM of the bottle. not to big, but enough of them I did 15 holes. 3. Then Stuff the Fiber filler in though the top of the bottle. Compact it down put a little more then half the bottle.
4 Attach the Gordan Hose to the top of the soda bottle, Screw it tight. NOW FOR THE FUN PART. Turn off the pump
5. take out the outtake plastic nozzle that’s in the pool, ( Save you will need when pool is clean) – ( it will twist off, but keep the hose from the pump connected to the pool so water don’t poor out)
6 Put duck Type about 4 to 6 inches on the hose to make a tight seal
7. Put the hose in the hole about 4 to 6 inches into its tight ( add more type, if still loose )
8. Tighten the Hose Clamp
Turn On the Pump and Congratulations your Done!!!!
Change when nasty about daily into clean ~ repeat steps 1 to 3

Hello, I have been looking on the web for possible ideas for my garden this upcoming spring and I came across these particular forms of drip irrigation. My question is due primarily to the difficulty in obtaining these particular components where I am currently residing and partially mula. I was curious to know whether it is possible to build your own soaker hose or drip line with rubber tubing/hosing and a fine needle. I have seen demonstratiosn of the soaker hose and the drip line and can’t imagine why this shouldn’t be possible. But, before I begin poking holes into rubber tubing, I figure I ask if anybody out there has already experimented with this method (tubing and needle). Or, maybe there are other methods that include more common trinkets that work just as well for drip irrigation. And if it is important, this will be a straight bed garden with regular and irregular spacing depending on the plant.

Thanks for the help.

Im making a pvc pipe mist project. Its a pipe with extreemly small holes drilled in, connected to a garden hose. The psi comming out from the garden hose spout is probably not enough to create a mist. how much psi is required to create a medium-to-heavy mist? I ask for the sake of knowing what psi pump i need to purchace to meet the needs of the mist. Thanks everyone!

Something has dug under the lattice under my porch and dug 2 holes up against my house foundation. There is a pile of gravel about the size of a wheel barrel load next to one hole.
I suspect this is rabbits but I have not actually seen them.

Any suggestions on removal? I tried to flood the hole with a garden hose but gave up as the hole never filled up.

The yellow pages in my rural neighborhood seems focused on termites not varments.

We have Viburnum shrubs outside of our house. they were recently cut very thin… like there are holes in the shrubs… they create a privacy hedge around our pool.. willl they grow back and fill in again ?