I have an intex metal frame pool that is 18×4ft. It has been up for two months with no problems. I apparently negleted the chemicals because it turned green and swampy. I caught it very early, like, we were swimming in it one day, it was green a few days later, and then i began working on it. I put in new chlorine, a jug of algecide, pool shock, and I adjusted the PH to where all the colored boxes on the test strip where in perfect range. The green disappeared withen half an hour. My problem? The water is slightly cloudy. It isn’t so bad that i can’t see the bottom, but it’s bad enough that it bothers me. I read that this is from the dead alge. I left the filter off for a day trying to make the dead alge settle on the bottom, but it never did. how do i make the water clear? Also, my pool came with a vacuum head that works with a garden hose, but i don’t know how to hook it up, I assume it works with the filter somehow?

My area is currently experiencing dry conditions, and there are watering restrictions in place. I always thought it was the opposite–that it’s better to raise the mowing height in dry conditions. But I was recently reading a lawn care website that recommended a mowing height of 2-3" with the following exception:

"Increasing mowing height also means that your lawn will soak up more moisture from the soil at a faster rate, which it then releases into the air. Moisture is used as a transport system that moves chemicals from one place to another inside the plant. In areas where drought conditions are being experienced, and water restrictions are in place, you might want to gradually lower your lawn mowing height to a slightly lower level."

So should I actually be cutting my lawn shorter (say, 2" or under) during dry conditions?

Thanks!

We have one of those Intex 18 x 48 Metal Frame pools. The vacuum that comes with it doesn’t work. It’s just a vacuum head that attaches to a garden hose. I think the theory is that the water from the hose pushes debris into a little (about the size of a ziploc sandwich bag) mesh bag. This does nothing for the sediment/dirt that settles to the bottom of the pool. We’ve tried making whirlpools to get the sediment to the middle and then wet/dry vacuuming it out but that is tedious, time consuming and not 100% effective. The chemicals are spot on and the water is clear until someone gets in and kicks up the settled dirt on the bottom. Then the water LOOKS gross and cloudy even though chemically speaking, it’s clean. Other than purchasing an expensive vaccum, is there anything else we can do? Can we get a hose and hook up the vaccum head that came with the pool to the filter pump? Has anyone ever tried this? Any suggestions?

Is there anything on the market that will neutralize the stickiness of spiderwebs? We seem to get them along the eves of the house and the garden hose simply doesn’t do the job. With all of the chemicals on the market, surely something out there will take care of this problem. It’s an eyesore to see these monthly. Currently we’re climbing the ladder and "cotton-candying" these issues. Any help would be great. Thank you.
What we mean by COTTON-CANDYING them is taking a stick and twirling the webs around the stick like cotton candy. Thanks.

Despite consistent watering, aeration, fertilizer, and mowing my front lawn is going to hell in a hand basket. I don’t even know where to start in fixing it. I live in Colorado, a very arid state and have Kentucky Blue Grass, a very water loving grass variety that is entirely too popular in our state. I don’t want to use a lot of chemicals on our lawn due to kids and dogs and I don’t want to pay a fortune for a professional to come out and take care of it. What can I do to find a solution to my grass issues?

I buy this spray that is .2% sulpher – and it costs an arm and a leg. I went to the garden store yesterday, and they sell sulpher for 7 bucks for 2 pounds…the directions say to use as a spray use 4 tablespoons per gallon…

Anyone have any idea if or how I would use that in one of those sprayers that looks like a quart canning jar that hooks up to a hose? I would like to spray my entire garden, not just a few plants, and that would be a lot handier than using a small spray bottle.

Thanks
Be well
Tink

btw – the sulpher works great for controlling disease, and its not nearly so bad as some of the other chemicals out there – I have bad asthma, so I can’t get near most the stuff by ortho or bayer – - and I think it works better at killing fungus and mites to boot….just an FYI

I have several questions.

1. What are the chemical ingredients of this fertilizer? Is it dangerous to humans, like a pesticide? And do any of its constituents bioaccumulate in the human body and contribute to the overral chemical body burden, exacerbating chances of cancer, illness, dementia, etc?

2. How long does the chemical fertilizer stay active, after being sprayed? Ergo, what is the appropriate re-entry time? My dog walked through a yard that had been sprayed with it, about seven hours after treatment. Could the dog then track these chemicals back into my home, where they can get into my body and hurt me?

3. Does this stuff essentially absorb into the grass and make it toxic? If the next day, someone cut the grass, does this make the "fresh cut grass smell" poisonous and neurotoxic, when inhaled? (The day right after it was sprayed on, the lawn was cut. Could the smell presently engulfing the house be toxic?

4. Does this chemical soup spray contain any 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid, or some other chemical constituent which does or might contain dioxins?

5. Are the chemicals capable of permeating through brick walls and glass? They were sprayed in front of my room. Can any of it faze through inside where I’m at, for me to inhale?

Ok, I want to start off this spring with a great and healthy lawn. (because with 3 children its starting to look shabby and depreciate the value of our property) I want to get the lawn thicker (seed) and healthy without puting too many chemicals on the lawn. (safety for my kids and dog) What do you reccomend to do when? Btw I live in wisconsin and the ground is still frozen so I have time to plan.. thanks!

I just got a gardening hose extender end (for watering gardens) and it says "Contains chemicals known to cause cancer, wash hands after use"
I’m wondering what part of it has carcinogenic material? The grip? solder in the pipe? Anyone know?

I like in the Chicago area and have moved into a new home (8 years old). I am unaware of the previous owner’s lawn care techniques. The reason for my question is that today I saw my first Japanese Beetle. Some websites say to treat for grubs now with the first sighting of a Beetle. The lawn looks good overall, but I do not some thatch. The yellow spots in the lawn are minimal. I do have an inground sprinkler system. My question is when is the best time to dethatch my lawn, and apply appropriate chemicals throughout the year in Chicago? What products and dethatching techniques are recommended? I appreciate your thoughts in advance!